On the southern shore of the Gulf of Ajaccio, the D55 road runs alongside a series of coves and beaches until reaching a sheltered inlet where the sand becomes almost white: this is Plage d’Argent, also known as Mare e Sole. Clear water, sandbanks where you can stand far from shore, a maritime pine forest behind the beach and a few beach shacks: it ranks among the most popular beaches in the gulf, and is equally suited to a morning’s swim or an extended lunch overlooking the sea.
Plage d’Argent in practice
- Where: southern shore of the Gulf of Ajaccio, south of the commune of Pietrosella, at the border with Coti-Chiavari.
- Access: via the D55 departmental road from Porticcio, some thirty kilometres from Ajaccio by road. Parking along the roadside.
- On site: Plage d’Argent restaurant and several beach shacks, pedalo, kayak and paddleboard hire, beach volleyball.
- To note: local guides report no lifeguard station, showers or public toilets on the beach.
- Worth knowing: cattle regularly come onto the sand; keep your distance.
One name, two languages
The two names coexist on maps and in conversation. Plage d’Argent derives from the fineness and luminosity of the sand, very fine and very pale, which takes on silvery gleams in certain light. Mare e Sole, “sea and sun” in Corsican, is the name also borne by the coastal sector where the beach is located.
Administratively, the beach straddles two communes: it marks the southern boundary of Pietrosella, at the border with Coti-Chiavari.
Water where you can stand far from shore
What established Mare e Sole’s reputation is first and foremost the water. Corsica’s tourism agency describes translucent waters and sandbanks where you can stand far from shore. The seabed slopes gently, which is reassuring with young children, and the inlet is sheltered from the wind, an advantage worth having on days when the gulf turns rough elsewhere.
In calm conditions, the water turns turquoise above the pale sandbanks. Behind the beach, a maritime pine forest provides shade and allows for picnicking in the cool rather than sitting in full sun.
Beach shacks, pines and free-roaming cattle
Much of the beach remains freely accessible. Along the sand are several beach shacks and the Plage d’Argent restaurant, where you can lunch with your feet almost in the water. For those who prefer the sea to the table, you can hire a pedalo, kayak or paddleboard, or book a boat from a rental operator in the area to explore the coastline.
Mare e Sole has a particular characteristic well known to regulars: horned cattle regularly come to settle on the beach. They are part of the scenery, but should not be approached, they may charge and cause injury. Keep your distance, put away your picnic, and all goes smoothly.
North or south: two excursions
Plage d’Argent lies midway between two aspects of the southern shore, making it a good base for a half-day of exploration.
To the north, towards Porticcio, the D55 passes through Ruppione, a fine sand beach supervised in summer and favoured by surfers, from which the sunset frames Ajaccio and the Îles Sanguinaires. Further on, the Isolella peninsula bears a Genoese tower built in 1608, listed as a historic monument.
To the south, you enter the commune of Coti-Chiavari. The village sits at 496m on a headland overlooking the southern shore of the gulf, and the commune occupies the far end of this shore, around Capu di Muru point. Three Genoese towers punctuate its coastline, and other quieter beaches, such as Portigliolo inlet or Cala d’Orzu beach, extend the outing.
AEC’s advice. In July and August, parking along the D55 fills up quickly: arrive early in the morning or late afternoon, when the low light makes the sand gleam. Bring water, a parasol and something to rinse off with, as the beach has no shower facilities. Bathing water quality is monitored by the health authorities and can be checked online before you go.
Where to stay
AEC Collection selects and represents prestige villas and apartments in Ajaccio and around the gulf. To be closest to the southern shore and Plage d’Argent, the selection of villas and apartments in Porticcio puts you near the D55 and its beaches. Our agents will help you choose the address that suits your stay’s rhythm.
A morning in the clear water of Mare e Sole, lunch in the shade of the pines, the sun descending over the Sanguinaires: the southern shore of the gulf has enough to fill far more than a single day.
