Sainte-Croix Beach at La Couronne: The Côte Bleue's discreet cove
Sainte-Croix beach, at La Couronne (municipality of Martigues), is not the most well-known of the Côte Bleue beaches, and this is one reason why it remains so cherished. A cove of fine sand, nestled between two pine groves, with translucent waters. Barely an hour’s drive from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, it makes for a reasonable coastal escape for those staying in the Alpilles.
The name derives from a small chapel perched above the cove, which remains one of the site’s most identifiable visual features, and which many visit to photograph at sunset, silhouetted against the sea.
The setting: pine grove, limestone, chapel
The beach is sheltered beneath a pine grove that descends to the sand and provides natural shade even in the height of summer. Access is via a flight of steps leading from an elevated car park, through a forest of stone pines. The water, owing to the enclosed cove’s configuration, remains very calm and particularly clear.
On either side, the rocky coastline typical of the Provençal littoral, white limestone and Mediterranean blue, extends towards the neighbouring calanques of Sausset-les-Pins and Carro.
A beach with structure yet unspoilt
Lifeguard supervision in season, shallow waters that reassure families, showers and facilities at the top of the steps: comfort is provided. Yet the arrangement is deliberately minimal: the spirit remains that of a quiet family cove, calmer than Verdon beach, the larger beach at La Couronne, further west.
The lime kiln path runs along the coast above the beach and offers the most pleasant walking approach, a shaded coastal path, with views over the chapel and the gulf.
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Travel Book AEC CollectionWhy visit from the Alpilles
From Saint-Rémy, the journey (approximately 1 to 1.25 hours by car) is entirely reasonable for a day trip. The contrast is total: one leaves the dry limestone of the Alpilles for the same stone, yet battered by the sea. Morning is the best window, the beach filling gradually from midday, especially in July-August, when it is almost impossible to find a car park space after 11am.
For a quieter experience, aim for May-June or September: water still (or already) at 20-22°C, moderate crowds, exceptional light on the chapel at day’s end.
Planning a stay in Saint-Rémy
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By the AEC Collection team
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